4 July 2006

Musee Louvre

It is a little known fact that the entrance via the metro station, at the Galerie du Caroussel is much quicker route into the Louvre than the entrance from the pyramid. Yes, finally I get to go to the Louvre! MH and Jenol are not too interested to look at paintings but there are enough shops, cafes and restaurant at the lower ground floor to occupy them while I went inside.

They have installed automatic ticket machines which had cut down the queues dramatically. I bought mine at the Tabac (tobacconist) just outside. (lagi no queue) There is a lovely shop selling art books for kids and pretty antique-style French gowns. Would love to get one for the little one cos she would look like a princess but at 125 euros? I don’t think MH will be amused. I spotted a Post Office! Quickly dashed in, bought a Mona Lisa postcard and mailed it back to U.K.


Underneath I.M Pei's iconic glass pyramid. The column on the left has a platform that acts like a lift for buggies and wheelchairs

From the post office, you walked through to the Inverse Pyramid with it’s miniature pyramid underneath it, made famous by The Da Vinci Code. Follow the crowd and there you are, underneath the big glass pyramid with the three entrances to each wing. The old style buildings outside looked superb framed through the controversial pyramid.

Of course, like 90% of the tourists there, I was looking for Mona Lisa so I headed towards the Denon Wing. The way to this beautiful lady is very well signposted with paper images of her along the way. If you miss the signposts, just followed the crowd. Almost all of them were paying homage to the great painting.

If you turn into Galerie Daru, over the heads of the throng of people, in all its glory, the Winged Victory of Samothrace. It is placed so dramatically by the upward climbing stairs that with its outstretched wings and wind-whipped clothes, it looked like it is about to take flight.


The famed Winged Victory of Samothrace


From another angle. Isn't she beautiful?

According to the guides, it is a sculpture of Nike (Victory) from the Hellenistic period, dated 208 BC, which made it over 2000 years old. Found off the island of Samothrace, it was perhaps sculpted to celebrate a famous naval victory. I simply marvelled at the beatiful way its garments were sculpted. You can almost feel the sea winds whipping away at its clothes, feel the wetness from the sea sprays and smell the briny sea.


My pathetic attempt of immortalising the Mona Lisa. She smiles just for you

Follow the crowd towards the Italian Paintings and there she is. La Gioconda. The one with the mysterious smile. Mona Lisa herself. The crowds are kept back with a divider and she sits secure behind a darkened bulletproof glass. The sign which the guard desperately waved at the crowd said “No photography” but I could not resist She sits shyly with her folded arms, a thin black veil over her head, with her knowing smile. Perhaps smiling with mirth at the miling throng before her, paying homage to her beauty and her secrets. .

No wonder she is smiling – the antics of the people crowded in front of her is enough to make anyone smile. An old couple spent a long time in front of her, not even giving anyone behind them a chance to take a look. A few people pushed to the front, took one look and then turned away with a “Is that all? What is the fuss all about?”. A young mother carrying a baby in her arms bypassed the divider and went really close to the photo. Another put her hand out, perhaps to cover one side of the face and then tried covering the other. The funny thing is another girl followed her example as well. A few loud Americans including one who said “Whassamadder with these people? Can’t they read no photographs?”

As for me, I stood there staring at the masterpiece. She is more beautiful in the “flesh” than the dozens reproductions I’ve seen; definitely more beautiful than the cheap 1 euro postcard I’ve bought. The darkened glass serves to throw shadows on that exquisitely painted face. With her veiled eyes and her secret smile, I felt that she is looking right through me and that we are sharing a private joke. For a moment, I felt that she is smiling just for me. I had tears in my eyes and moved away before I could be caught blubbing in front of this extraordinary painting. No wonder Leonardo Da Vinci said she is his finest work.


My favourite angle of Eros and Psyche. Eros looks like so light - like he is about to take flight.


A gentle cradle


..and kiss...

Away from the Mona Lisa, the Louvre is much quieter and more reflective. Oh the treasures they have in there! There is Venus de Milo, another iconic artwork of the lady without arms. I feel she is not as dynamic as the Winged Victory but it is unusual how she was sculpted with a twisting torso. My favourite sculpture is the statue of Eros and Psyche (above). I love the gentle way he cradles the sleeping Psyche and the tenderness in their entwined arms.


The lavish Napoleon apartments


Details on one of the chandeliers

I went to the Napoleon apartments over at the Richelieu wings. Gorgoeous deep burgundy colours on the walls with dripping chandaliers. The windows are drawn close and the colours are muted in the dark – of course they were trying to protect these precious furnishings from the bleaching effects of the sun. On the way here, I bypassed the large format painting of Napoleon’s coronation with Napoleon placing a crown on a kneeling Josephine. With their sumptous ermine trimmed scarlet robes, with diamonds dripping from their clothes, they would not looked out of place in the Louvre.

1 comment:

yuRa said...

i am so afraid to go to see whatever you've described here for real. cos they might not live up to the image in my mind now from your writings. *sigh*